A Surfer for President? Why the Long board is Chairman of the Board
Image- Recording artist Corky Carroll “Surfer for President”
What were long boards called before the revolution of shortboards sparked up in the 50’s & 60’s?…
Hey guys today I am answering that and:
- Why should I learn to surf on a longboard?
- Why do surf schools act like the longboard is the chairman of the board?
These days there are so many different types of surfboards. We have laser cut, light weight, durable, maneuverable, wafer-thin, easy to carry, short surfboards. Boards are being made with space aged materials developed by NASA scientists that have devoted their lives to making pans.(story for another day)
So why do we still use long boards to teach surfing with so many different board types to choose from? It can be confusing trying to figure out what kind of board to use when beginning surfing. This should make things a little easier for you.
There are many reasons why beginning with the long board is the best and easiest way to ensure you have the most fun and safe time building a solid foundation on your way to surfing your little guts out. Learning to surf should be fun. The surfboard you choose to plant your fun-damental roots with is important.
In this video Corky makes it look like dancing Surfing is a way to express your joy and style through sweet moves to a rhythm.
Instead of moving to the beat of the drums we move with the rhythm of the ocean. The oceans act as our universal dance conductor. Our beautiful waves are the music and our board becomes our partner. Using a longboard is a great way to express personal style.When learning how to dance it would make sense to learn on a solid dance floor, right? The process of becoming in touch with your mind body connection and working out the movements you want to use to express your funky, funky, joy. Would be much easier, and in turn, much more fun on a solid platform rather than a tight rope…
That might sound like an extreme comparison. So is learning to surf on a short board compared to the huge advantages of rooting your surfing fundamentals on a nice stable foundation like a longboard. At least at first…
Quick Advantages to rooting with a longboard:
- Paddling is much easier than on a short board.
- A long board allows you to catch a wave earlier and more easily. Being at the front of the line-up gives you the most opportunity to catch waves in the first come first served style lineups of today.
- Easier to sit on (which can be tricky) long boards are more stable.
- The extra stability of a long board allows for the long take offs that beginners might experience so you catch more waves and have more time to get to your feet.
- Smooth ride. The big boards are not as susceptible to choppy water conditions and can feel like gliding on air.
Priority in the lineup for a long boarder is like a fast pass to your favorite attraction. In the line-up long boards are chairman of the board.
Quick advantages of surfing with a longboard at Bolsa Chica or Playa Guiones:
- Both Bolsa Chica and Playa Guiones are consistent with longboard friendly and long board advantageous conditions.
- Each spot is known to break with nice even workable waves that do not “pitch” or “throw” hard.
- The surf is generally fun and consistent year round.
In Line-ups around the globe, longboards are the royalty of the surf.
The royal roots of surfing
According to ancient Pacific Island lore. One legend tells us that back in the day, same as today, life on the Islands was intertwined and dependent upon the ocean.Being an accomplished waterman in the village was a very respected skill. Often the best watermen in the village were considered chiefs and treated like royalty. These watermen chiefs were known as Kahuna. The oceans meant everything to the people and their survival. Being able to navigate the ocean and feed a village was a big deal.
So how does this relate to surfing?
This is the root of surfing.
Legend has that a particularly stormy season was taking it’s toll on a Pacific Island village. The storms wiped out their crops. The village needed fish. Their Kahuna was the best waterman in the village. Following his heart and his instincts the Kahuna went out fishing in the stormy ocean.. He would brave the ocean storms to feed the village.Knowing it might mean the end of his life. The Kahuna was willing to risk everything for the wellbeing of the people he called family. That type of spirit is what made him royalty in his village.The Kahuna set out in his one man boat to harvest the oceans bounty. As he pulled fish after fish into his boat the pounding of the ocean began taking its toll.
The sides of the boat began leaking. The Kahuna’s boat began taking on water. Knowing that if the boat sinks, he could lose his catch, his boat, and possibly his life.The Kahuna acted swiftly and purposefully.Instead of giving up and sinking into the ocean. The Kahuna began to do something unexpected.
The Kahuna tapped into his heart and instincts. He strung his catch together and began to break his boat apart even more. Completely removing the hull walls of the boat leaving only the bottom. The bottom of the boat was buoyant enough to float. He started paddling making his way back toward shore. The closer to shore the Kahuna got the happier his heart became. The Kahuna became so overjoyed to see the faces of his family waiting for him on the beach that he stood up and began riding the waves into the shore like a champion of life. This is part of the magic of the Kahuna. His boat became the first surfboard. The Kahuna became the first surfer.
Instead of giving up. The Kahuna followed his heart and his instincts. He fed the village and surfing was born. Truly Royal in life, love, spirit.As the ancient Kahuna would tell you. The longboard has strong roots for a good surfing foundation. Learning to surf and navigate the ocean on a long board is the key to years of surfing joy.
Whether you call it a boat, a log, or a surfboard. The longboard will always be the OG root of surfing. The “chairman of the boards.”
Answer to today’s question: The original “surfboards” :) were originally named based off of the specific wood and shape used to make the board. Some boards were exclusively reserved for use by Hawaiian royalty. The penalty was deaaaaaath if ridden by non royal kooks.
Check out these spots for the hot board history info:
“revolution of short boards in the 60’s.’’ -surfer today
International Surfing Museum Huntington Beach, CA
Surfing Heritage and Culture Center in San Clemente, CA
Written by Chris Benton “The Blog Master”
